SawyerSomm Savory Suggestion: BBQ Pork Spareribs with Zinfandel
Let’s face it, all barbeque sauces are not created equal. Some are sweet and tangy, while others can be much more bold and spicy. To celebrate July 4th, a classic American tradition to follow is Patrick and Gina Neely’s recipe for Pork Ribs, which melds together the sweet and tangy flavors of brown sugar, molasses and apple cider vinegar with spicy notes of cayenne pepper and smoked paprika to create a tasty sensation with a lingering finish. Typically, these ribs are easy to serve with baked beans and coleslaw.
To match up with this wide range of flavors, I tend to lean towards serving a balanced Zinfandel with ripe fruity flavors, layers of spice, balance, and a restrained level of alcohol. Among the flavorful new releases to meet my criteria is the DeLoach Vineyards 2012 Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($20).
Known as California’s “sweetheart grape,” Zinfandel has been grown in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley since the early 1880s. While many of the older vineyards are “field blends” interplanted with Petite Sirah, Carignane, Mourvedre (Mataro) other red grape varieties, the new DeLoach wine is more focused on purity and the fresh fruit flavors from younger vines planted at the Becnel and Slusser vineyards in northern Russian River Valley and a smaller portion of more concentrated fruit from old vine Zinfandel planted closer to the Deloach Estate Vineyards western of Santa Rosa. As a result, the wine features lively aromas of ripe blue fruits, violets, cinnamon and clove; concentrated flavors of boysenberry, blueberry, black raspberry, dark plum, fresh cracked pepper, layers of savory spice; a sexy rustic texture; and a long, lingering finish without too much heat or alcohol.
As an extra July 4th tip, I would recommend pairing the BBQ Pork Spareribs and DeLoach Zinfandel with the movie Top Gun starring Tom Cruise, Kelly McGillis, Tim Robbins and Val Kilmer. Ironically, several scenes from the movie were filmed at the Kansas City Barbeque, a bar and restaurant located in the harbor district of San Diego, which opened to the public in 1983, the same year Russian River Valley became recognized as an American Viticultural Area. On its own merits, that patriotic fact of American wine history takes my breath away!
SawyerSomm Savory Suggestion: Grilled Prawns with Dry Pink Wines
Beyond the American flag, if you add red plus white, the outcome isn’t blue. Instead it’s usually a distinctive pink hue. But for many wine consumers the thought of pink wine immediately sparks childhood memories of grandma’s passion for the sweet Portuguese brands like Mateus and Lancers in the 1970s or the white zinfandels and other styles of domestic blush wines that were served in households across America in the 1980s and 1990s. Thus, when you add all these factors together, it is easy to see why pink wines are often pooh-poohed, ridiculed, and vastly misunderstood through the years.
But over the past decade a quiet rosé revolution has been taking place as a growing number of well-respected wineries have started producing sexy European-style pink wines featuring complex aromas, rich fruity mouthfeel, zippy acidity and a lingering bone-dry finishes.
I bring this subject up because the Fourth of July is an all-day affair highlighted by picnics, barbeques, tailgate parties, parades, and other culinary events leading up to the fireworks finale at night. For that reason, eating a lot but eating lite is a great option. So instead of relying solely on meats and poultry, another healthy and refreshing option is to serve grilled prawns with a nice dry style of pink wine.
One of my favorite starters is Barefoot Contessa Ina Garten’s Roasted Shrimp Cocktail. a dazzling appetizer with smoky flavors and a tangy dipping sauce made with ketchup, chili spice, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce and a squeeze of lemon. As an alternative to roasting on the Fourth, the prawns can easily be done on the barbeque by wiping the grill with an oiled paper towel to create a nonstick surface.
As a classy compliment to the dish, try the Etude 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Grace Benoit Ranch, Carneros ($26-$28). Served chilled, this perky young wine features a lovely salmon-colored hue and fragrant aromas of red berries, rose petals, nectarine fuzz and citrus peels. On the palate, the flavors explode with notes of Bing cherry, raspberry, tart cranberry, and hints of the small Watmaugh strawberries grown down the road from the Grace Benoit Ranch near Sonoma. With vibrant acidity and a crisp, dry and thirst quenching finish, it’s a lip smackin’ wine that stimulates the senses and works wonders with the tangy, zesty and charred flavors of Ina’s appetizer.
P.S. Don’t forget to check out the fun musical intervention of Taylor Swift cooking with Ina in the new July/August issue of Food Network Magazine and the upcoming Food Network in Concert at Ravinia in Highland Park near Chicago on September 20, 2014.
Pairing wines with food is a noble duty. This is particularly true on the Fourth of July, a classic American holiday when fireworks and barbequed foods reign supreme and the choice of tasty wine can enhance the meal that much more.
To many, it’s as simple as serving hamburgers and hot dogs with their favorite bottles of Chardonnay or Merlot. But for those of you looking for a little more adventure, there are plenty of new ways of matching tasty comfort foods with bright, playful and expressive wines. For that reason, I thought it would be fun to update the holiday article I wrote a few years ago for Rebel Mom . So here is the first of my four picks leading up to Independence Day 2014…
Grilled Chicken and Vegetables with Edna Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
Known for its fresh aromatics, fruity flavors, zippy acidity and crisp finish, white wines made with Sauvignon Blanc grapes can offer a refreshing alternative to the buttery styles of Chardonnay in the summertime. A great example of this style is the Edna Valley Vineyard 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast ($15). This bright new release features fragrant aromas of citrus blossom, grapefruit and fresh cut grass; bright flavors of ripe melon, papaya, lime and gooseberry; and a crisp, refreshing finish.
Besides pairing nicely with grilled chicken marinated in white wine, herbs and citrus, the vibrant acidity of the wine also works great with grilled asparagus, squash, onions and other veggies that are often difficult to pair with, as well as handling the heat in spicy dishes as well. For a fun July 4th pairing with the Edna Valley Vineyards 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, check out Chef Mark Murphy’s fantastic recipe for Grilled Corn on the Cob with Chili-Lime Butter and Cojita Cheese. Yummy, easy to make, and a perfect pairing with a fresh wine poured from a screwcap bottle. Oh, behave!
As much as I talk about wines, I must say that today’s World Cup game matching the United States vs. Belgium makes it impossible for me to resist my love for fine Belgium brew. Of course this includes the fine beers made by the Trappist monks at Notre-Dame de Scourmont Abbey in Chimay and other top producers in country like Duvel, Affligem and Leffe, as well as talented brewers who are making their stylized versions here in the United States like Ommegang Brewery in Cooperston, N.Y. and New Belgium Brewing Company in Fort Collins, Colorado.
Today’s game to watch is United States vs. Ghana / ESPN 2:30 PST
United States: Before playing its first game in the 2014 FIFA World Cup, the US soccer team is already going through a small identity crisis. For starters, German-born coach (Juergen Klinsmann) has already cut seasoned veteran Landon Donovan from the roster and candidly said that his team will not win the 2014 World Cup championship. For that reason, more pressure has been placed on star forward Clint Dempsey and the other younger players to score and goalie Tim Howard to hold his own against the strong and speedy team from Ghana. Of course, there’s also the fact that they are playing their first game in Natal, Brazil (a.k.a. “City of the Sun”) which has had heavy rainstorms over the last few days. Then, when you considering the fact that the next two opponents after Ghana are Germany and Portugal, there’s a reason why Group G is loosely referred to as the division from hell. So realistically, today’s game is a do-or-die situation for the US team to advance to the next round.
Although we can’t all be there to help the team, an easy good luck charm would be to bust open a bottle of the Carol Shelton 2012 “Wild Thing” Old Vine Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($19) made with fruit from old and mature vineyards, wild yeast, and aged in fine oak barrels.
Often referred to as California’s “sweetheart” grape, the first cuttings of zinfandel were brought to the West Coast during the Gold Rush boom in the 1850s. Before Prohibition, plantings were spread throughout the state, and thanks to the natural vigor of the thick-skinned red grape and its resilient character to avoid diseases, many of these original vineyards can still be seen dotting the landscape in Mendocino County and other prestigious winegrowing regions throughout California.
For these reasons, the new release of the 2012 Wild Thing packs a serious punch with lush, jammy flavors of black raspberry, bright cherry, plum, blood orange peel, clove, pepper and a hit of vanilla. In Carol’s words: “Remember—you are what you drink…” Like the US soccer team, it’s a very youthful wine with plenty to prove. Go team, go! www.CarolShelton.com.
Ghana: From the coast of West Africa, Ghana is a very serious soccer team who has beaten the US in the last two World Cup matches the teams have played. So it makes sense that the name of the country literally means “Warrior King.” For cuisine, Ghana is best known for seafood, soups and stews. One of the popular entrees is grilled Tilapia filet served with tomatoes, spicy sauce made with chilies and peppers, and Banku (a starch made with corn maize). With historic connections to German merchant marines and a portion of the country once known as the German Gold Coast, a fantastic pairing with the flaky texture of the fish and layers of spice would be a German or Alsace-style white blend. One of my favorites is the Brooks 2012 “Amycas” White Table Wine, Willamette Valley ($18), a combination of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat and Gewurztraminer. This lovely domestic version of Edelzwicker (German for “noble blend”) features enchanting aromas of fresh citrus, honey and exotic fruits. On the palate, the wine is highlighted by notes of fresh lime, peach, mango and papaya, vibrant acidity, and a clean, crisp finish. Scary good. www.BrooksWine.com.
On a lovely warm afternoon in San Francisco this past Monday, Southern Wine & Spirits and their subsidiary company American Wine & Spirits held their annual “A Taste of the Best” event at the Hyatt Regency Embarcadero Hotel. Below are my top red wine picks from the event. Cost per bottle is based on the retail price at each winery.
Fog Dog 2012 Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Sonoma Coast ($35)
In the English dictionary, the noun Fog-Dog means “A bright or clear spot that appears in breaking fog.” Working on this premise, this new gem from Joseph Phelps Winery is made with fruit from the prime cool climate areas in the Sonoma Coast appellation where the fog makes a daily break. In my opinion, the 2012 vintage is bigger and more gracious than the 2011 with fond aromas of dark fruit, rose petals and subtle spice. On the palate, the wine opens up with lavish flavors of black raspberry, dark cherry, cola, baking spices and racy acidity. Oh so satisfying!
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing:Grilled salmon served with sunchoke hash, spinach, sundried tomatoes and gourmet mushrooms.
Archery Summit 2012 Pinot Noir, Premier Cuvée, Willamette Valley ($49)
Following the celebrations of the 30-year anniversary of the Willamette Valley appellation and the 20-year anniversary of Archery Summit Winery in 2013, this new release is young, vibrant and very age-worthy. The blend or cuvée of premium Pinot Noir grapes are from the six cherished vineyards that Archery Summit has worked with for years: Arcus Estate, Archery Summit Estate, Red Hills Estate, Looney Vineyard and Renegade Ridge Estate. With attractive earthy-berry aromas and deep flavors of briary blackberry, cherry, licorice, cinnamon, mocha, forest floor and a rich, silky texture, it’s easy to love this wine. Plus, it’s a great value from Willamette Valley at under $50 per bottle.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing:Pork Tenderloin stuffed with compote of cherries and plums.
Madrigal 2010 Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($28)
Located between St. Helena and Calistoga in Napa Valley, talented vineyard manager Chris Madrigal and his family established the Madrigal Family Winery in 1995. Today, with the help of legendary winemaker Ed Sbragia (see below), Chris makes a wide range of tasty limited release wines. Of the current releases, one of my favorites is the Madrigal 2010 Zinfandel, a zesty wine with dynamic notes of wild strawberry jam, black cherry, dark chocolate, clove and fresh ground pepper. Not too jammy; so it’s a great wine to sip by itself or serve with spicy cuisine.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Baby Back Ribs with tangy BBQ sauce.
Qupe 2012 Syrah, Central Coast ($20)
For the money, it’s hard to beat this amazing new release of Syrah crafted by Rhone Ranger’s legend Bob Lindquist. Highlights include enchanting aromas with notes of berries, flowers and citrus and fresh flavors of ripe red berries, boysenberry, mineral, earth, white pepper, cardamom, ocean mist and lovely texture.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Roasted Duck or Cypress Grove’s Purple Haze (Artisan Cheesemaker Mary Keehn’s fabulous offering of fresh Goat Cheese infused with lavender and fennel pollen buds).
Pefolds Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, South Australia ($75)
From the land down under, comes the new release of Penfold’s affordable version of baby Grange. Fragrant aromas of ripe red berries, fresh lavender and lambs ear flowers. On the palate, concentrated flavors of blackberry, blueberry, savory spices and long, smooth finish. Ace! (“Excellent!” in Australian slang).
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Lamb Sliders with caramelized onions and blue cheese.
Sbragia 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley ($55)
After more than thirty years of working as head winemaker at Beringer Vineyards in Napa Valley, in 2006 Ed Sbragia returned to his childhood roots in Sonoma County to start his eponymous winery with son Adam in Dry Creek Valley. From the family’s Reserve wine collection, this Cabernet Sauvignon is made with world–class fruit from Monte Rosso Vineyard, a historic site near the top of the new Moon Mountain appellation overlooking Sonoma Valley in southern Sonoma County. Classic hillside aromas of dark berries, fresh tobacco, leather, roasted espresso beans, earth, mineral and wild sage. Elegant flavors of ripe blueberry, briary blackberry, huckleberry, cola, clove, pepper, and savory herbs.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Think hearty.Think hillside. Think Wild boar ragu made with sage, fresh picked vegetables, and served with wild mushroom risotto. Yum!
Justin 2011 Isosceles Red Wine, Paso Robles ($70)
Commemorating the 25th Anniversary of one of California’s most iconic wines; the brilliant new release of the Justin 2011 Isosceles is a deep Bordeaux-style blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc. Elegant and sophisticated, the wine opens up with lofty aromas of ripe red berries, licorice, vanilla, and cedar box. Then, with each sip, the flavors become more expansive with deep notes of dark cherry, black raspberry, roasted walnut and baking spices; velvety texture; bright acidity; and a long, rewarding finish. Distinct, refined, and ultimately delicious!
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: An ideal wine to pair with grilled Hanger Steak with garlic cream sauce, or an artisan selection of hard cheeses served at the end of the meal.