The following is a piece I wrote for Foster Farms to accompany this year’s Presidential Turkey, you can read more at this Press Democrat article as well.
The art of pairing wine with Thanksgiving cuisine starts by showcasing the quality of products the chef is using to create memorable dishes for guests to enjoy. For that reason, it’s important to find wines that complement rather than overwhelm. At the top of the chain, it starts with the quality of the turkey.
In Sonoma County, the tradition of working with the Nicholas White turkey dates back to the mid-1950s, when talented University of California Davis graduate George Nicholas established the Nicholas Oak Hills Research Farm. After perfecting this noble breed of turkey, chefs and vintners in the region began serving special wines to match the gracious flavor profiles of the magnificent red-headed birds.
Today, this tradition continues with the next generations of families who celebrate the delectable flavors of the turkey, the fixings on the table, and world-class wines which make Sonoma County one of the great wine and food destinations of the world.
For white or sparkling wine fans, using fresh herbs or citrus in the marinade or side dishes can create perfect match ups. Or, if red wine is your preference, you can adjust the flavor of gravy by adding a few cups of your favorite varietal or blend to the classic combination of neck, giblets, onions, carrots, celery and turkey or chicken stock before simmering. Other helpful hints include using strawberries, cherries, and roasted nuts in salads or dried cranberries in stuffing to match the flavors of the red or dry pink wines.
In the end, with so many styles to choose from, the key is find wines that make the guests happy and work harmoniously with the turkey and the rest of the fixings on the table.
With the Foster Farms Nicholas White Turkey, here are “Sommelier to the Stars” Christopher Sawyer’s special Presidential Turkey wine picks for 2015.
Gloria Ferrer NV Brut Sparkling Wine, Sonoma County: Over the past three decades, Gloria Ferrer Brut, made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes primarily grown at the winery’s estate vineyard in the Carneros appellation in southern Sonoma County, has become a marvelous example of a world-class sparkling wine. The winery’s flagship bottling, Gloria Ferrer Brut features dazzling flavors of ripe apple, pear, citrus, and a creamy texture that works wonders with appetizers, starting courses, and saltier Thanksgiving dishes.
Price: $18
Gundlach Bundschu 2014 Dry Gewurztraminer, Sonoma Coast: Founded in 1858, Gundlach Bundschu is the oldest family-owned winery in California. This classic Thanksgiving wine features lofty aromas of ripe figs, melon and fresh citrus; tangy flavors of tree fruit, peach, lemon, white pepper and nutmeg; and a long, dry and engaging finish. Beyond the turkey, the fresh, crisp and perky acidity of this wine pairs extremely well with soups, salads, yams and sweet potatoes.
Price: $22.50
MacMurray 2013 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley: One of the hallmark sites of Sonoma County, MacMurray Ranch was developed by actor Fred MacMurray and his family in the 1940s. Delicate floral aromas with notes of stone fruit and ginger lead to flavors of crisp green apples, ripe peach, pear, and lemon cream. Elegant, playful and fulfilling, this Pinot Gris is a fresh and expressive alternative to buttery Chardonnays.
Price: $20
Balletto 2013 Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Russian River Valley: From a great farming family of Sonoma County comes a fantastic Pinot Noir with silky texture and notes of ripe cherry, red berries, cinnamon, nutmeg, cocoa, savory spices and a touch of earth. Not only does this Pinot Noir pair nicely with fine cheeses, salads, cranberries and mushroom-based dishes; it’s also a fabulous option to serve with turkey sandwiches on the days following Thanksgiving.
Price: $29
St. Francis 2012 Merlot, Sonoma Valley: From one of the first producers of Merlot in California, this flavorful release from St. Francis is made with fruit from the winery’s Behler and Wild Oak estate vineyards in Sonoma Valley. Highlights include fragrant aromas and lavish flavors of dark cherry, plum, chocolate and baking spices. Rich, smooth and supple, the texture of this wine complements turkey and its traditional fixings on the plate.
Price: $20
Dry Creek Vineyard 2013 Heritage Vines Zinfandel, Sonoma County: A delicious staple of the region, Zinfandel can provide that touch of spice to each course served during the holidays. Honoring the old vine plantings throughout the county, the Dry Creek Heritage Vines Zinfandel features aromas of wild berries, licorice and savory spices; flavors of blackberry, dark cherry, raspberry, black pepper and a hint of oak; and a long, graceful finish. Beyond tasting great on its own, this balanced wine pairs well with tangy sauces and the savory dishes served alongside turkey.
Price: $20
While you get ready to spook or get spooked, take a few minutes to enjoy this mini b-n-w film fest: One featuring me, the other my friend Daedalus Howell. Happy Halloween!
Need a good reason to buy wine? How about making Mother’s Day an everyday celebration! Think about it: Who says honoring your mother, mother-in-law, or the mother of your child has to be reserved for one day of the year? Instead, take advantage of the great opportunities you have to exceed expectations by introducing her to tasty new styles of wine on a regular basis. To make it even more fun, you add these experiences to bigger packages that include fine dining spa treatments, and visits to wineries in the near future. In any case, the key is to not be skimpy, but instead focused and alert to learn more about the styles of wines she likes to drink.
With these ideas in mind, here are five new springtime picks and food pairings for mom. Just like SawyerSomm and Feast It Forward, the producers of these remarkable wines will be involved at the upcoming Bottle Rock festivities in Napa, May 29-31. For more information, visit www.bottlerocknapavalley.com.
Pick #1: Brut Rosé Sparkling Wines Why buy mom flowers when you can give her roses in liquid form? For a delicious example, try the Schramsberg 2011 Brut Rosé, North Coast ($43). Crafted with Pinot Noir and a smaller percentage of Chardonnay grapes grown in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Marin counties; this sparkling gem features tiny bubbles and a dazzling pink hue. In the flute, the wine offers lovely aromas of ripe red berries, dried cranberry, citrus rind, brioche, mineral, and spice. The flavors are lavish, with notes of wild strawberry, watermelon, fresh squeezed citrus, ginger, a hint of vanilla, and a crisp, dry finish. Overall, it’s an elegant sparkler with enough power, complexity, and natural verve to make mom blush with each sip.
SawyerSomm food pairings: Lox & bagels, sushi, oysters with tangy mignonette, Bouillabaisse, pomegranate chicken, pork tenderloin with fresh cherry chutney, custard with fresh berries.
Schramsberg Vineyards 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, CA 94515. www.Schramsberg.com.
Pick #2:Aromatic White Wines
If mom likes aromatic white wines, reward her with a bottle of fresh and tangy Pinot Gris. A classy example is the Goosecross 2013 Pinot Gris, Napa Valley ($27). With fragrant aromas of spring flowers, fresh citrus, melon, ripe tree fruits, sandalwood and subtle spices, the wine features elegant flavors of tangerine, ripe white peach, Asian pear, red apple, and a burst of vibrant acidity. Clean, crisp and refreshing—it’s a wine that keeps on giving.
SawyerSomm food pairings: Tangy cheeses, fresh appetizers, stuffed figs, spring rolls, fish tacos, wild rice salad, grilled chicken skewers with tangy aioli dip, and various styles of Vietnamese and Thai cuisine.
Goosecross Cellars, 1119 State Lane, Yountville, CA 94599. www.goosecross.com.
Pick #3:Fresh, elegant styles of Chardonnay
With all the fresh fruits, produce and vegetables now so abundant at the farmer’s market, it’s a great time of the year to taste fresh Chardonnays that is bright and vibrant instead of buttery and oakey. One of the tasty new releases is the Miner Family 2013 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($30). Made with fruit grown primarily at the revered Hyde, Hudson and Genny’s vineyard properties in the Carneros District of southern Napa Valley, the wine features lovely aromas of ripe stone fruits, exotic melon, fresh citrus, and cinnamon. In the glass, the flavors expand with notes of crisp apple, coconut, lemon, grapefruit, sage, mineral, racy acidity, and a long, engaging finish.
SawyerSomm food pairings: Medium cheeses, gourmet salads, grilled fish with fruit salsa, seafood pasta with a tangy white sauce, risotto with lemon and fresh herbs, grilled chicken and pork chops.
Miner Family Winery, 7859 Silverado Trail, Oakville, CA 94562. www.minerwines.com.
Pick #4:Smooth and complex Merlot is back
For mothers who prefer drinking sophisticated red wines with smooth texture, a great choice is Merlot. Over the past decade, Merlot-based wines from the New World have suffered setbacks due to the rising popularity of Pinot Noir and the misunderstood statements from the film Sideways. Thankfully, the worst is now behind us and the end result is bright, fruit-forward wine with more backbone and layers of flavor. A charming example is the Clos du Val 2012 Merlot, Napa Valley ($35), which includes lofty aromas of ripe plum, red berries, espresso, and spice; robust flavors of cherry, plum, raspberry and dark chocolate; smooth velvety tannins; and a long finish. If mom doesn’t say a word for a few minutes, she’s probably just enjoying the elegant and sophisticated profile crafted by gifted winemaker Kristy Melton.
SawyerSomm food pairings: Gourmet Mac n’ Cheese, grilled vegetables, grilled salmon, seared Ahi with espresso rub, fresh pasta with truffle, gamey meats, deluxe burgers, and slow roasted beef brisket.
Clos du Val Winery, 5330 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94557. www.closduval.com.
Pick #5:Classy Red Wines with power and finesse If mom prefers full-bodied red wines, a magnificent new release is the Jamieson Ranch 2012 “Double Lariat” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60). Highlighted with aromas of wild berries, licorice, fresh tobacco and roasted black walnuts, the wine expands in the palate with generous flavors of dark cherry, blackberry, fresh currant, cassis, allspice, and fine French oak. The mouthful is plush with chewy tannins, firm structure, and a long, elegant, and rewarding finish.
SawyerSomm food pairings: Blue cheese, tartlets with wild mushrooms, seared duck breast, roast lamb, grilled steaks, and braised meats.
I am excited not only to share this piece I wrote, regarding delicious wine and Mexican food pairings for Cinco de Mayo festivities, but also to introduce you to BuyWine.com.
I have been writing in-depth appellation descriptors for the site over the last year in preparation for them to go LIVE!!! Take time to read my article and peruse the possibilities for your wine purchasing future. . .
For your viewing pleasures, here is the second part of my annual Christmas film and wine pairings. Merry Christmas to all! Cheers, Christopher
Scrooged (1988) Based on the classic Charles Dickens’ character Ebenezzer Scrooge, Bill Murray plays Francis Xavier Cross, a top New York television company executive with a serious chip on his shoulder. While trying to salvage relationships with his girlfriend, co-workers and family, Francis learns the hard facts of life from an amusing trio of Christmas ghosts representing the past, present and future.
Pairing: Ravenswood 2012 Zinfandel, Old Hill Ranch, Sonoma Valley ($60)
Although he is the main character in this film, Murray’s role is further enhanced by a great cast which includes Karen Allen, John Forsythe, Robert Mitchum, John Houseman, Lee Majors, David Johansen, Robert Goulet, Carol Cane, Bobcat Goldthwait and other fine actors. In many ways, a similar thing is happening inside a bottle of the Ravenswood Old Hill Zinfandel. Planted in the 1880s, this special site features a one-of-a-kind field blend of Zinfandel, Mataro (Mourvedre), Carignane, Grenache, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah, and 20-plus other grape varieties. As a result, this intriguing selection of grapes produce a powerful wine with a substantial amount of depth, structure, and plenty of high-tone flavors of ripe blackberries, black raspberry, licorice, vanilla, violet, fine French oak, and complex notes of dried herbs, Mexican baking chocolate and black pepper spice on the finish. Pour yourself a glass, kick back, and notice how these supple flavors continue to expand along with the mixture of holiday drama, dark humor and the lavish music by Danny Elfman. www.RavenswoodWinery.com.
It’s a Wonderful Life (1946) Frustrated with his life, his job and his awful boss, George Bailey (Jimmy Stewart) is ready to commit suicide when he meets his guardian angel Clarence. In turn, Clarence shows Bailey what life would be like if he was removed from the picture. When this emotional rollercoaster finally stops, Bailey goes on to correct the wrongs in time to celebrate Christmas with his family.
Pairing: Elks Cove 2013 Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley ($19)
Directed by Frank Capra, this holiday classic screams out to be paired with a wine of equal stature. In 2014, one of my favorite picks is the Elk Cove 2013 Pinot Blanc, a crisp, clean and favorable wine made with scrumptious grapes grown in Willamette Valley. The end result is a brilliant white wine with aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, ripe melon, pineapple, crisp apple, white cherry, honey and cardamom, hint of mineral, racy acidity, and a generous creamy note on the finish. Superb with this movie and a plethora of other holiday treats, warm soups, gourmet salads, or by itself when paired with this classic Christmas film. www.elkscove.com.
Miracle on 34th Street (1947)
In the beloved Christmas tale Miracle on 34th Street, Edmund Gwenn stars as Kris Kringle, a sweet old man who plays Santa at the Macy’s Day Parade. But once he claims to be the original jolly man from the North Pole, the story quickly become a bit more complicated. Is he nuts? Is he Santa? You have to wait for the court case to find out.
Pairing: Col Solare 2011 Red Wine, Red Mountain, Washington State ($75)
Given the fact that generosity and teamwork are the underlying themes that make this film a true Christmas classic, a taste-tempting sensation that addresses these important topics head-on is the Col Solare 2011 Red Wine, a joint project began in 1995 by Ted Baseler of Chateau Ste. Michele in Washington and Marchese Piero Antinori of Tuscany. Made by talented winemaker Darel Allwine and team this concentrated blend contains 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec grapes grown primarily at the Col Solare Estate in the Red Mountain AVA of Washington State. The end result is rich and complex wine featuring fruit-driven aromas and deep flavors of ripe cherries, black currants, mineral, milk chocolate and toasted almonds; smooth tannins; and a long, elegant finish. Besides pairing great with the powerful characters played by Gwenn, Maureen O’Hara and Fred Gailey, the vibrancy of the wine is enhanced by Natalie Woods’ portrayal of the young girl. In short, it’s a lively compliment to such a sentimental film. www.colsolare.com.
With only a few days until Christmas, it’s time to start relaxing, opening bottles of fine wines, and absorbing the seasonal spirit with the help of true celluloid classics. Below are three of my favorite pairings. Stay tuned for more of my seasonal picks over the next few days. Cheers! Christopher
__________________
A Christmas Story (1983)
Set in rural Indiana in the 1940s, Peter Billingsley plays Ralphie Parker, a young boy who will do anything possible to get a shiny new Red Rider Air Rifle for Christmas. But it does not take long until Ralphie finds himself jumping through a series of comical hoops to convince Santa (a.k.a his father) that he deserves such an expensive present.
Born in the 1940s, many Baby Boomers would have their first wine tasting experiences with Mateus and Lancer’s, two sweet and enticing brands of pink wines from Portugal which flooded the American market in the 1960s and 70s. But today, pink wines are much more sophisticated and finish dry. This is especially true with delicious versions of vintage sparkling wines. A great example is the new release of the Gloria Ferrer 2010 Brut Rosé, a delicious sparkling wine made with premium Pinot Noir and a tiny splash of Chardonnay grapes (10%) grown in Carneros. In the flute, this delicate bubbly with a pale salmon pink hue features aromas and flavors notes of wild strawberries, ripe peach, Meyer lemon, raspberry and cherry; a rich, creamy texture; tangy acidity; and toasty notes of roasted almond on the finish. Hands down one of the best new sparkling wines to pair with holiday cuisine—especially roasted turkey, ham, salmon, and fine cheeses. www.GloriaFerrer.com.
Did you know? Freixenet, the parent company of Gloria Ferrer in Spain, is currently celebrating its 100-year anniversary in 2014. To celebrate the winter months with Freixenet wines, snacks and films, check out my new article published in the December issue of Food Network Magazine, focused on pairing Peppermint Popcorn with the Freixenet Sweet Cuvee Brut, www.FreixenetUSA.com.
__________________
White Christmas (1954)
White Christmas is sweet, sentimental and fairly amusing film starring Bing Crosby, Danny Kaye, Rosemary Clooney and Vera-Ellen as musical entertainers who join forces to raise funds to help save a hip resort in the snowy hills of Vermont.
Aside from the classic ditty “White Christmas,” another important Irving Berlin song in this film is “Count Your Blessings Instead of Sheep.” In Spanish, the term “carneros” refers to a ram or sheep. In the past, the rolling hills in the Carneros region between Sonoma and Napa were known as a home to many of these cute and fluffy animals. However, today much of this beautiful landscape is blanketed with vineyards. Among the many delectable white wines made with the cherished fruit from the region is the Bouchaine 2012 Pinot Gris, a crisp, bright and sophisticated Alsatian-style wine featuring fresh aromas of fresh apple, citrus, orange blossom and mineral. On the palate, the generous flavors include ripe green apple, grapefruit, lemon and nectarine; and a long sassy finish that compliments this memorable holiday musical. Try this wine with medium cheeses, soups, salads, seafood, and roasted chicken with rosemary. www.Bounchaine.com.
__________________
Elf (2004)
Hands down one of my favorite Christmas movies, Elf stars Will Ferrell as Buddy, an orphan accidentally whisked to the North Pole by Santa (Ed Asner). Once Buddy becomes an adult he quickly learns that it’s hard to be an oversized human in Elf world. On the brink of deep depression, he travels to the seven levels of the candy cane forest, past the sea of swirling gum drops, and through the famous Lincoln Tunnel on his journey to New York City to find his father (James Caan), a hard-nosed businessman at the top of Santa’s naughty list. Directed by Jon Favreau (Chef,Swingers), this film is jolly Christmas fun from start to finish!
For a wine pairing with Elf: think Pinot Noir—a marvelous red-grape variety grown in cool climate conditions. Like Buddy and the rest of the elves, Pinot noir grapes come in many different shapes and sizes. The best styles of these wines are gentle, delicate, flavorful, complex and ageworthy. For a tasty example, try the new release of the Trombetta 2012 Pinot Noir, an admirable wine made with world-class fruit from the Gaps Crown Vineyard located in the Petaluma Gap section of southern Sonoma County. The wine features alluring aromas of dark cherry, wild berries, mineral, spice and homemade peanut butter crust. On the palate, the fantastic flavors are highlighted with memorable notes of cherry, blackberry, blueberry, black pepper, clove, and a hint of cola which pairs extremely well with the scene in which Buddy pounds a two-liter bottle of Coca-Cola. Overall, the full-bodied flavors and true complexity of this wine match perfectly with happy demeanor of Santa, Buddy and the rest of the elf clan. www.TrombettaWines.com.
So there we were: Twenty wine judges tasting through the over 70 Best of Class gold medal winners at the Sweepstakes Round of Vineyard & Winery Management’s 24th Annual Grand Harvest Awards. It was so quiet in the room you could hear a pin drop and an occasional chime of two glasses making incidental contact. But when all the contenders were tasted, the Best of Show wine was the fabulous Miro Cellars 2012 Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley ($30).
The Madara Horseman on the Miro Cellars label is based on a Bulgarian monument carved in bas relief on a cliff twenty three meters above ground. This mysterious sculpture was created at the beginning of the eighth century during the birth of the Bulgarian nation.
In hindsight, I remember our panel tasting this wine and thinking how generous the fruit was, the layers of flavors and spice, and that long smooth finish. So once the winner was revealed, I wasn’t surprised that this magnificent Petite Sirah was made by Miro Tcholakov, one of the great winemakers of Sonoma County who tends to roll under the radar. After coming to California from his home country of Bulgaria, Miro worked at Dry Creek Vineyards and eventually became head winemaker at Trentadue Winery in Geyserville. On the side, Miro and his family started making Miro Cellars wines in 2001. Coincidentally, the debut release was…Petite Sirah, of course. For more info on Miro’s new releases, visit www.MiroCellars.com.
From a pool of nearly 1100 entries, the other awards included 82 Best of Class, 39 Double Gold, 161 Gold, and 450 Silver medals. Judges included winemakers, wine buyers, distributors, media personnel and other wine industry professionals who not only recognized the best wine submissions but possessed the level of knowledge and expertise needed to assess the wine’s terroir.
The following wines took best their categories:
Best White Wine: Hunt Country Vineyards, 2013 Seyval Blanc, Finger Lakes ($10.99)
SawyerSomm notes, as tasted with fellow judges Alisa Nemo of Handley Cellars and Thrace Bomberger of Walt Wines: Seyval Blanc is a French-American hydrid created by Frenchman Bertille Seyve around 1920. Made in stainless steel, this bright and expressive white wine has lively floral aromas of spring flowers, geranium and citrus. On the palate, a mixture of ripe melon, papaya, grapefruit, mineral, and a long graceful finish. Pairings: gourmet salads, grilled fish, chicken skewers with tangy citrus aioli. www.HuntWines.com.
Best Rose Wine: Truett Hurst Winery, 2013 Salmon Run Rosé, Dry Creek Valley ($18)
SawyerSomm notes, as tasted with fellow judges Alisa Nemo of Handley Cellars and Thrace Bomberger of Walt Wines: Not to be mistaken with Pink Zinfandel, this is a fantastic example of a classy dry Zinfandel rosé with fragrant aromas and lively flavors of wild strawberry, peach, plum, red cherry, anise and orange rind. Pairings: tangy cheeses, fresh berries, tostadas, Paella and spicy Indian cuisine. www.TruettHurst.com.
Best of Show and Best Red Wine: Miro Cellars, 2012 Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley ($30). www.MiroCellars.com.
Best Sparkling Wine: Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyard, 2006 Royal Cuvee, Carneros ($37). www.GloriaFerrer.com.
Best Spirit from Grapes: Petroni Vineyards, Grappa di Lorenzo, Sonoma Valley ($45) . www.PetroniVineyards.com.
Best Fruit Wine: Heritage Vineyards, Jersey Blueberry, Outer Coastal Plain ($10.99). www.HeritageWineNJ.com.
Best Late Harvest/Dessert Wine: Stephen & Walker Winery, 2012 Chardonnay Botrytis, Mendocino Ridge (Tbd). www.trustwine.com.
For more juicy information…
Sonoma Valley represented: Hamming it up with Winemaker Michael Muscardini of Muscardini Cellars and Winemaker Katie Madigan of St. Francis Winery.
Established in 1990, Grand Harvest Awards seeks to uncover the distinctions of terroir by grouping wines for evaluation by appellation and variety. Wines are judged in the context of their viticultural regions in order to recognize the complexities and nuances of regional wines, and also to observe the influence of regional soil and climate characteristics on the taste and quality of individual wines.
Dazzling Judges Dinner menu prepared by Rosso Pizzeria at Paradise Ridge Winery.
“This unique wine competition showcases the diversity of terroir and we are pleased to be part of the research and promotion of allits regions in the U.S. and beyond,” said Robert Merletti, President and Publisher of Vineyard & Winery Management magazine.
And as the official GHA spokesperson, here’s my quote on the awards press release: “For decades we have been trying to interpret the styles of wines made in America. Now, thanks to the use of new technology and fruit from more mature vines, the unique flavor profiles are becoming more defined. For those reasons, it’s exciting to see that the diverse list of winners at the Grand Harvest Awards 2014 really demonstrate how terroir makes a difference in the flavor profiles of grapes planted in special regions across the nation.”
Full results for the competition are posted on www.winecompetitions.com, a website developed by EnofileOnline for Vineyard & Winery Management to house all six of its wine competitions, and on www.enofileonline.com.
Official sponsors of the competition included Hilton Sonoma Wine Country, Penta Ultra-Purified Water, Graber Olives, Wine Country Shipping, Alsco, Costeaux French Bakery, Lagunitas Brewing Company and Sonoma Cider. And last but not least, great thanks to my good friend Debra Del Fiorentino, who did a great job as the Chief Judge at this year’s competition. See www.vwmmedia.com for more information.
Next Up: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, January 6-9
Stay tuned for news from the upcoming San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition 2015, the largest competition of American wines in the world, January 6-9. To enter wines in the competition before the deadline on December 10th or for information about the special early bird’s ticket price to the SFCWC Public Tasting on Saturday, February 14 which ends on New Years Eve, visit www.winejudging.com.
As winter and the holidays arrive, it’s time to start thinking about hearty meals paired with spectacular red wines. While Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon are heavy hitters in this category, it’s also time to start taking a serious look at Merlot.
Yes, I’m talking about the same grape that took the blunt from the famous lines said by lead character Miles (Paul Giamatti) in the film Sideways: “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I’m not drinking any f*#@ing Merlot!”
Merlot Seminar at #NVFF2014 (Clockwise from bottom left): Winemaker Tom Rinaldi, Provenance & Hewitt Wines; Sean Quinn, Wine Program Manager of #NVFF2014; Winemaker Chris Carpenter, La Jota & Cardinale Wines; Chris Sawyer (me); Wine Writer Jim Laube, Wine Spectator; and Hailey Trefethen, Trefethen Winery.
After rising to star status in the wine industry during the 1980s and 1990s; Merlot was already going through a midlife crisis when the film was released a decade ago. Frankly, there were too many weak versions of the wine in the marketplace that were sweet, green, herbaceous, vegetative or insipid. But thanks to the sensitive message in the film, many of the vines planted in the wrong locations have been torn out and the level of quality has recently risen to its highest point in decades.
Following the 10-year anniversary screening of the Sideways at the recent Napa Valley Film Festival, the delights of these charming new wines were explored at a provocative, thought-provoking seminar aptly titled “We’re Drinking Merlot!”
Held at the Traditional Home Culinary Stage next to Barrel Room 1870 in Yountville on November 14; I joined in on tasting through the delicious wines with the allstar panel which included Jim Laube, Editor, Wine Spectator; Winemaker Tom Rinaldi, Winemaker, Provenance Vineyards; Hailey Trefethen, Trefethen Family Vineyards; Chris Carpenter, Winemaker, La Jota Vineyard Company; and panel moderated by NVFF Wine Program Manager Sean Quinn.
“I’m going to preach it, I love Merlot,” says Rinaldi, who started working with the grape variety when he became the winemaker at Duckhorn Wine Company in 1978. “It’s really versatile with a wide range of foods.”
Rinaldi says he rarely puts out wines that are 100% Merlot. Instead, he follows the Old World style by blending in small portions of Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals. And through the years, he says common traits of the fruit he works with are red fruits, tobacco leaf, rum raisin, and dark tea.
Laube agreed, saying that his favorite styles of Merlot are filled with delicate flavors and texture with layers of elegance and finesse. “They are wines that are far beyond “Dumber and Dumber” for adults.”
Today, many of the best selections are made with grapes grown at the terroir-driven sites sprinkled throughout the beautiful landscape of Napa Valley. Many of these vineyards are planted in the clay soils in the cool windy region of Carneros. Some are grown at high elevations in the rugged volcanic soils of Howell Mountain or surrounded by forests in the sub-AVAs of Mount Veeder, Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain. On the valley floor, others are planted on special sites feature gravelly and alluvial-based soils, warm days, and cool nights.
According to Carpenter, the rugged growing conditions of the grapes he works with winery’s estate vineyards on Howell Mountain help add more natural tannins, burliness and wild flavors to the La Jota Merlots. The end result is deep lush flavors with hints of gritty minerals and herbal accents.
The quality has also improved considerably thanks to growing the varietal in the right conditions, newer clones, angling the rows for optimum sun exposure in the mornings and late afternoons, and ultimately picking the fruit at the optimum brix with lower sugar and higher acidity.
Although the wines are not as tannic as Cabernet Sauvignon, many of them do have the ability to age. For instance, Trefethen shared a few bottles of the 1999 vintage made with fruit from her family’s estate. The wine was silky smooth and still had deep flavors of cherry, plum and subtle spices. As a result, it’s an ideal cellar selection to share with friends and family during the holidays.
“I hope people continue to grow Merlot where it works best,” says Trefethen, representing the third generation of her family, who originally started their winery in 1973. “It’s a very expressive grape with lovely flavors, supple tannins, and worthy of being back at the top of the world-class scale for drinking and cellaring.
Thanks to the combination of soft tannins and finesse, the distinct flavors of these high-quality Merlots are also very approachable and fantastic with winter dishes. Beyond pork, poultry and Turducken, Rinaldi likes to pair his Merlots with anything grilled, especially eggplant and steaks. Trefethen says the smoky character of the style of Merlot her family makes provide flexibility that allows her to pair with pastas with tomato-based sauces. And Carpenter loves to have his style of wine with leg of lamb, rosemary, and red wine reduction sauce.
With those pairings in mind, I’m going to open another bottle of Merlot.
Happy Holidays from SawyerSomm.com!
_____________________________
SawyerSomm: Top Napa Valley Merlot Picks for the Holidays
Trefethen 2011 Merlot, Trefethen Estate Vineyards, Oak Knoll District ($40)
Lovely blend of 77% Merlot, 15 Malbec and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. Festive aromas of red berries, cinnamon, nutmeg, leather and tobacco. Fresh and lively flavors of cherry, raspberry, black pepper, clove, and a long, elegant finish. www.trefethen.com.
Rutherford Hill 2011 Merlot, Napa Valley ($30)
From the Terlato family, this powerful new release is made with Merlot and small dollops of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The aromas are deep with notes of ripe fruits, cocoa, vanilla and smoke. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied with generous notes of cherry, plum, red currant, anise, and fine-grained French oak. Tasted at the NVFF Merlot Seminar with winemaker Marisa Taylor. www.rutherfordhill.com.
Freemark Abbey 2012 Merlot, Napa Valley ($34)
Legendary Napa Valley winery known for working with Merlot over the past three decades. The latest release features lovely notes of ripe red berries, dark chocolate, clove and orange peel. Rich mouthfeel, supple texture, and long finish. Solid! www.freemarkabbey.com.
Markham 2012 Merlot, Napa Valley ($20)
Crafted by star winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls and tasted by the panelists as the mystery wine at the Napa Valley Film Festival seminar, this purist expression of Merlot is young, bright and grapey. Carpenter liked the notes of blueberry and lush tannins. Trefethen liked the spicy notes. Rinaldi liked the maraschino cherry and mushroom attributes. And I liked the lively fruit flavors, spicy layers of mint, cinnamon and clove, and how the wine opened up with more time in the glass. Young, vibrant, and very food-friendly! www.markhamvineyards.com.
Provenance 2011 Merlot, Three Palms Vineyard, Napa Valley ($65)
Dense, full-bodied wine, with aromas of dark fruits, dried herbs, mineral and cedar. Ripe and juicy flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cassis, cranberry, mineral, earth, and fine-grained tannins. Overall, a fantastic Merlot with deep flavors, elegant texture, and a long, generous finish. www.provenancevineyards.com.
La Jota 2011 Merlot, Estate Grown, Howell Mountain ($75)
Planted on red volcanic and Ryholitic tufa soils at elevations above 1,700 feet; this deep, dense wine features attractive aromas of wild berries, cocoa, licorice, wild mountain sage, and cedar. On the palate, the flavors are complex with notes of black raspberry, dark cherry, milk chocolate, mineral, roasted almonds, and allspice. Overall, the wine features rich texture, chewy tannins, and velvety finish. www.lajotavineyardco.com.
More tasty Napa Valley Merlots recommendations:
Silverado 2010 Merlot, Estate Grown, Mt George Vineyard, Napa Valley ($35)
Attractive aromas of wild berries, cocoa powder and spice. Deep flavors of blackberry, blueberry, red currant, milk chocolate, licorice, wild mountain herbs, and forest. Great wine with pork, poultry and gourmet burgers. Tasted at the Flavor Napa Valley “Grapes & Grills” event, #FlavorNapa. www.silveradovineyards.com.
Grgich Hills 2010 Merlot, Estate Grown, Napa Valley ($42)
Elegant Merlot with lovely aromas of ripe red fruits, licorice, cardamom, and roasted walnuts. Flavors of ripe plums, wild strawberries, mint, and layers of spice. Firm structure, chewy tannins, and a long, silky finish. Great wine with baked ham, roasted meats, and blue cheese. Tasted at SawyerSomm.com HQ. www.grgich.com.
Goosecross Cellars 2010 Merlot, State Lane Estate Vineyard, Yountville ($48)
This is a hidden gem from a lovely winery off State Lane east of the downtown Yountville. Made with 100% estate fruit, the wine is big, rich, and powerful. Aromas and flavors of dark cherry, wild berry, black trumpet mushroom, firm structure, chewy tannins, and great length. Get some of this wine before it’s gone! Tasted with Goosecross proprietors Christi Coors Ficeli and David Ficeli; winemaker Bill Nancarrow; and fellow wine writer Linda Murphy. www.goosecross.com.
St. Supery 2011 Merlot, Estate Vineyard, Rutherford ($50)
Dark, rich and opulent style of Merlot made with fruit grown at the St. Supery Estate Vineyard in Rutherford. The aromas and bouquet are laden with alluring notes of dark cherry, cassis, mochaccino, licorice, and pipe tobacco. On the palate, deep flavors of cherry, blackberry, cassis, plum, milk chocolate, vanilla and fine French oak. Supple tannins and velvety texture. Each sip makes you want more—it’s that good! The wine was tasted, along with a fantastic pairing of a Grass-Fed Beef Burger with Melted Gruyere, Sherry Carmelized Onions on a Brioche Bun made by Chef Adam Ross of 1313 Main Restaurant, at the Flavor Napa Valley “Grapes & Grills” event at St. Supery Winery. www.stsupery.com.
Duckhorn 2011 Merlot, Napa Valley ($54)
Elegant, complex and worthy of cellaring, this new release is made with fruit from the estate and other special sites, including the Three Palms Vineyard, which makes up about 30% of the current vintage. On the nose, stimulating hints of red fruit, roasted almonds, and cedar. In the glass, the wine opens up with lavish flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, cherry and mineral; firm structure, silky smooth tannins, and opulent finish. Tasted at SawyerSomm.com HQ. www.Duckhorn.com.
SawyerSomm’s Cellar Selection: Paloma 2007 Merlot, Spring Mountain District ($54)
This magnificent cellar selection was made by Sheldon Richard with Merlot and smaller fraction of Cabernet sauvignon from his family’s high elevation estate vineyard on the Mayacamas Mountains west of St. Helena. Fragrant aromas and complex flavors of fresh tobacco, violets, blueberries, cassis, milk chocolate, forest floor, wild herbs, and a long, engaging finish. Rich, supple, graceful, and eager to please! The new 2010 is equally dynamic, but requires decanting or more aging in the cellar. Tasted at the NVFF Merlot Seminar and the fantastic Spring Mountain Tasting held at Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch. www.palomavineyard.com.
Catch this Claypool Cellars “POST Turkey Day Bonanza” at Hopmonk Tavern in Sebastopol on Saturday November 29th at 7pm. A Fabulous wine and music event to hasten your holiday recovery. Tickets available online!
Forget shopping on Black Friday, have some wine instead! The Heart of Sonoma Valley Wine Association is having a Holiday Open House on Friday and Saturday, November 28-29.
Get a two day pass for $45 with online promo code 14HOHSV
