The German 1-0 win over Argentina on Sunday marked the first ever championship for a European team when the FIFA World Cup has been played in the New World.
But that’s soccer.
In the world of wine, Germany and the neighboring country of Austria have been making magnificent white wines with the noble grape Riesling for centuries.
This year’s new releases are no exception as proven at the recent German and Austrian Fall 2014 Tasting presented by Terry Theise Estate Selections and WineWise/The Vienna Wine Company at the Fort Mason Center in San Francisco.
According to the producers I spoke with, the 2013 vintage is magnificent across the board.
“The first priority of the vintage was based on farming,” said Gunter Kunstler, winemaker/proprietor of Weingut Kunstler in the Rheingau region of Germany.
“It’s critical to be there at the right time when the fruit is ripe, the acid in balance and the skin is healthy. But when you master this process, it’s much easier to create balanced wines with layers of complexity.
Same was true for Caroline Diel, whose family owns Schlossgut Diel in Nahe. “In my opinion, 2013 was a relatively late year. But with god work in the vineyard and a little patience, the wines are fresh, beautiful and quite enjoyable when young.”
Wine scholar, author, philosopher and lovable bon vivant Terry Theise, who hosted the tasting, is fond of the vintage as well. “It’s a special vintage where the clusters had time on the vines to develop deep flavors of fresh fruit, acid, slate and other nuances that have resulted in classy wines that are both food friendly yet still have the ability to cellar for decades.
Here are some of my favorite picks from the event. Prices based on suggested retail.
Donnhoff 2013 Tronschiefer Riesling Trocken, Nahe, Germany ($30): Green apple, white plum, peach, grapefruit rind and mineral. Lively, fresh and stimulating to the senses.
Geil 2013 Geyersberg Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany ($33): Very young, very vibrant with pretty floral aromas, flavors of pear, dried apricot and fleshy texture. Great wine to serve as an aperitif or with spicy Asian cuisine.
Kunstler 2013 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Rheingau, Germany ($33): Fragrant aromas of spring flowers, fresh citrus and mineral. Medium body with lively flavors of lychee, mango, grilled pineapple, and a long finish.
Schlossgut Diel 2013 Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany ($31): Young and fresh wine with notes of ripe golden delicious apple, fresh citrus, green tea, sage, mint and racy acidity.
Fantastic wine that makes you feel younger with each sip!
Brundlmayer 2013 Riesling ‘Kamptaler Terrassen’, Kamptal, Austria ($27): Impressive example of Riesling from the Kamptal region on the Danube River in Austria. Ripe pear, lime, hazelnut, sea salt and a nice toasty note on the finish.
Located in the foothills between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe in Northern California, El Dorado County is known for its high elevation, pine forests and warm daytime temperatures. Following the discovery of gold in Coloma in 1848, the county became one of the top winegrowing regions in California before the turn of last century. The secret to this success was planting Zinfandel, Mission and other intriguing grape varieties used to make still wines, dessert wines and brandy in the combination of granitic soils and rugged sloping hillsides. But after a decline in plantings and the advent of Prohibition, the history of winemaking in the region was forgotten for nearly half a century.
That changed when the first phase of plantings in the modern era happened in the 1970s. In addition to Zinfandel, the new vineyard blocks included fighting varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. But it wasn’t until 2008 that the amount of vineyards surpassed the 2,100 acres planted in 1904.
After the appellation was granted by BATF on October 13, 1983, El Dorado has become one of the most intriguing winegrowing regions in California with newer plantings of Bordeaux varieties as well as a concerted effort to make signature wines with European varieties from the Rhone Valley, Italy and Spain. Over the past two decades, the diversification of grapes planted has made a big splash with consumers searching for full-bodied wines with deep flavors and layers of spice.
Today, the appellation features over 70 wineries and over 2,400 acres of vineyards. Most of the wines are made with estate grown grapes and vineyard designates. Besides the regular draw of thirsty consumers from Sacramento and the greater Bay Area; the newest visitors to the region are talented winemakers and representatives from high profile wineries who are looking to strike it big with purchases of high quality fruit at admirable prices.
Last week, I was honored to moderate a special wine panel featuring some of the living legends, growers, and talented winemakers who work with the fruit from the region. Held in the charming events space at Mulvaney’s Building & Loan, a hip restaurant located in downtown Sacramento, the “Taste at a Higher Level” panel discussion and walk-around tasting was organized by El Dorado Winery Association and Solterra Strategies. Below are my notes of the wines featured on the panel. Also look for more of my reviews of #ElDoradoWines in upcoming issues of the The Sommelier Files. For more information on the wineries, maps and varietals grown in the region, visit www.ElDoradoWines.org.
Madrona Vineyards 2010 Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut ($35) / Guest panelist: Winemaker & Proprietor Paul Bush.
Paul’s parents Richard and Leslie Bush purchased 52 acres of land on the ridge of Apple Hill a few miles from the Placerville in 1972. The family immediately rolled the dice by planting 32 acres of own-rooted vines at 3,000 feet, which made it the highest vineyard at the time in California. At third leaf, the family made the first wines down the road at Boeger Winery and the other young fruit was sold to Ravenswood, David Bruce and Robert Mondavi Winery. The winery, named after the native Madrona tree planted in the middle of the estate property, was completed in 1980.
SawyerSomm notes: Fresh, elegant and lively style of sparkling wine made with 100% Chardonnay planted at high elevations. Fragrant aromas and deep flavors of ripe stone fruit, grapefruit, Meyer lemon, a squeeze of lime, roasted almonds, mineral, high acidity, and a long crisp, dry finish. At the walk-around tasting, the winery also poured its stunning 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon that still tasted young, elegant and built to please. www.madronavineyards.com.
Founded in the mid -1990s by David Girard, the focus of this vineyard and winery has always been on French varietals. Today, the vines planted are all Rhone varieties and the winery produces 5,000 cases of Rhone style blends annually.
SawyerSomm notes: Food-friendly Rhone-style Rose for summertime made with 45% Mourvedre, 41% Grenache, 14% Counoise grown on the winery’s estate vineyard. Attractive pink hue; bright aromas of ripe red fruits, rose petal and vanilla; fresh flavors of red plum, cherry, watermelon rind, subtle spices; and a refreshing burst of racy acidity on the finish. www.davidgirardvineyard.com.
Sierra Vista 2013 “Lynelle” Red Rhone Blend ($29) / Guest Panelist: Proprietor John MacCready
One of the true Rhone varietal pioneers of California, John and his family planted the first Syrah vines in El Dorado County and the Sierra Foothills in 1979. Today, John and his staff offer thirsty consumers a nice selection of crafted wines made with Rhone varietals, Zinfandel, Cabernet, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
SawyerSomm notes: Young and perky, this new red blend made with Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre hasn’t been release yet but it’s already rather tasty. With fresh aromas and vibrant flavors of ripe raspberry, dark cherry, granite, tobacco, red earth and savory spices, it reminds me of a fine medium-bodied French Rhone blend that you would drink when eating fresh caught fish from the Mediterranean. In this case, I’d be content with a glass of this wine and a nice filet of fresh Ahi tuna seared on the outside and pink in the middle. www.sierravistawinery.com.
Known as the “Granddaddy” of modern winemaking and viticulture in the El Dorado appellation; Greg and his wife Susan purchased their original piece of property in 1972. Located a few miles north of the historic city of Placerville, the winery and estate vineyards are located on Carson Road, a well-traveled roadway which leads to “Apple Hill,” a popular agriculture destination which attracts a million visitors per year. From the 1860s to 1920s, the property was home to the Lombardo/Fosatti winery and today the original winemaking facility is a California Historic landmark. Greg planted his first Barbera vines in 1976 and today the varietal represents up to one-third of the family’s wine sales on a yearly basis.
SawyerSomm notes: Deep aromas and rich flavors of ripe blackberry, dark cherry, licorice, pepper, Mexican baking chocolate, blood orange peel, and a high level of natural acidity. Overall, a great food wine that Greg and Susan’s son Justin loves to serve on a daily basis. “It’s the wine I bring to a dinner when I don’t know what’s being served,” says Justin, who took over head winemaking duties from his dad after he graduated with a degree in fermentation science from UCD in 1998. “I think it is such a versatile and dynamic wine that can pair with so many types of cuisine that it’s great all year long. It’s an all-around wine, and a true crowd pleaser.”
On the southern edge of El Dorado is the Fair Play sub-appellation founded in 2001. At Cedarville Vineyards, UC Davis graduates Jonathon Lach and Susan Marks work with 25 acres of vineyards planted at 2,000 feet in the decomposed soils. And although they produce flavorful Rhone varietals, Zinfandel is the workhorse at the estate. “Everybody has a different course and direction towards gaining notoriety in the industry. In El Dorado, our course isn’t going to be like what’s already been done. Instead, it might just be based on the pure quality of fruit in this area,” says Lach, who is a loyal member of the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers organization.
SawyerSomm notes: Unlike the coastal regions in California that are cooled by maritime winds, El Dorado is more continental and above the fog line. When the sun comes up at 6 a.m., high levels of UV rays hit the vines for an entire day of maturation. In the late afternoon, the AVA is cooled by breezes that are pulled down from the Sierras towards the Central Valley to the west and the American River to the north. As a result, the Cedarville Vineyards Zinfandel is loaded with fresh flavors of wild berries, licorice, pepper, cardamom, licorice and a velvety texture that feels gentle, sexy and stimulating on the palate.
The Skinner family originally established its first winery in El Dorado County in 1861. But after Prohibition the tradition was lost until Mike and Carey Skinner brought the family legacy back to life when they purchased the current property a mile away from the original winery in 2006. Since then the family has gone on to establish a reputation for producing world-class Rhone-style wines with the help of talented winemaker Chris Pittenger, who previously worked with William Seylem, Maccassin and Torbeck wineries before bringing his skills to El Dorado.
SawyerSomm notes: Known for its deep, rich flavors and meaty, earthy and rustic qualities, Mourvedre is commonly used for blending with Grenache and Syrah grapes in the Rhone Valley of France and Australia or bottled alone in Spain, where the varietal is called Monastrell. In California, only 800 acres are planted of which Skinner has about 3 acres planted at its two estate vineyards. This new release features attractive aromatics and generous flavors of ripe raspberry, blueberry, wild strawberry, green olives, fresh sage, chaparral and layers of spicy herbs.
Keplinger Wines 2012 “Caldera” Red Wine ($60) / Guest Panelist: Winemaker & Proprietor Helen Keplinger
One of the astonishing statistics from El Dorado is that the grape tonnage sold outside of El Dorado County increased 67% from 1,646 tons in 2011 to 2,741 in 2012. In addition to large-scale contracts with popular brands like Bogle and Delicato; on a smaller scale, hip indie wineries are purchasing fruit from the region, too. Long before she became the cover girl on the March 2014 issue of the Wine Spectator, Helen Keplinger developed a passion for making complex wines with the pristine fruit she purchases from the high-elevation Caldera Vineyard owned by Ron Mansfield which features a mélange of Aikens loam and ancient lava pebbles.
SawyerSomm notes: Big, dense and ethereal; this new release is a blend of Mourvedre, Grenache and Counoise. On the nose, the wine features tantalizing aromas of wild berries, thinly sliced prosciutto, leather, mineral, red earth and exotic spices. After the aromas cross over to the palate, they are further amplified with layers of core fruits, wild strawberry, black plum, blackberry and allspice; balanced structure; a generous amount of acidity to support the weight of the wine; and long dry finish. Superb, complex and worth the price. It’s also worth noting that Helen makes a delicious Rhone-style white from the region. It’s name? “El Dorado,” of course. www.keplingerwines.com.
More Wine News of Note… Congratulations to the Napa Valley Vintners for the most successful wine auction of all time last weekend! With events held at the Meadowood Resort in St. Helena, Charles Krug Winery and other special sites throughout the valley, the 34th annual Auction Napa Valley raised $18.4 million for local charities. Kudos to the fantastic wineries, chefs, sommeliers, wine collectors and avid wine lovers who participated at the record-setting weekend event. For more information on the festivities, photos and more highlights, visit www.napavalleyvintners.com.
Coming later this month: Results from the Sunset International Wine Competition and California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition (both of which I recently judged)…Tips on the exciting new food and drink culture in Sacramento…A celebration of the accomplishments at the Bacigalupi Vineyard in Russian River Valley…Hot Pinot Noir picks from the Santa Cruz Mountains and tasty Barbera notes from the Sierra Foothills…Highlights from the Lake County Wine Competition and the San Francisco International Wine Competition which I’ll be judging over the next couple weeks…a preview of the upcoming #SonomaWineCountryWeekend, August 29-31… and much more!
Lights! Camera! Action! This Thursday marks the beginning of the Mendocino Film Festival 2014, a dazzling cinematic mélange of independent films, local wines, and the flavorful cuisine Mendocino County has to offer, May 29 to June 1.
Last year, I was honored to play an important role at the festival by introducing the fantastic documentary SOMM at the special screenings in the charming towns of Mendocino and Philo. In addition to fielding great questions from the audience at each showing, I and fellow sommeliers Ian Coble and Sabato Sagaria (two of the co-stars featured in the film) had many opportunities to taste through a wide range of the world-class Pinot Noirs made with fruit from the premium vineyards in Anderson Valley throughout the festivities.
This weekend, film buffs attending the film festival will also have multiple chances to taste the great Pinot Noirs from the recent vintages. So as a preview, a couple weeks ago I tasted through many of the exciting new releases at the 17th Annual Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival, May 16-18. Below are five of my top picks that will be available at the Mendocino Film Festival 2014; local restaurants like the Booneville Hotel and Little River Inn; and fun winery tasting rooms along the way. In the meantime, for more information about the Mendocino Film Festival, visit www.mendocinofilmfestival.com. And for contacts to wineries mentioned in this article, visit www.avwines.com.
Husch 2010 “Knoll” Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Anderson Valley ($40)
Located on the hillside above the Husch tasting room, the first Pinot Noir vines in Anderson Valley were planted on “The Knoll” above the tasting room on the Husch property in 1971. Today, the grapes from these old vines are still putting out dense flavors as evident in the new release from the 2011 vintage, which is highlighted by notes of fresh red cherry, pomegranate, vanilla, earthtones, forest floor, layers of spice, and rich texture. Only 13.7% alcohol and a tremendous value at under $45 per bottle!
Knez 2012 Pinot Noir, Cerise Vineyard, Anderson Valley ($42)
Located above the quaint town of Boonville, the Cerise Vineyard features 13 blocks of Pinot Noir planted on four separate ridges. The new release from Knez is a blend of the specific Pinot clones and special selections, which include 2A (Wadenswil), Pommard, Martini, David Bruce and 667. Elegant and refined, the nose is filled with hints of fresh carnations, green tea and ripe plums. The flavors (which open up with each sip) are highlighted by plum, ripe red cherry, cocoa, redwood bark, and a hint of freshly sliced prosciutto.
Domaine Anderson 2012 Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Anderson Valley ($45)
Made with clones 4, 114, 667 and 777; this is the debut Pinot Noir release from Domaine Anderson, which is located at the site which used to be home to Jim Ball Winery. Deep aromas of red and black fruit, leather, tobacco, clove, earth and black tea. Flavors of plum, red cherry, wild strawberry, rhubarb and a long, dry finish.
Drew 2012 Pinot Noir, Morning Dew Vineyard, Anderson Valley ($55)
Crafted by talented winemaker Jason Drew, this expressive Pinot Noir is a combination of 60% Rochioli clone and 40% of the La Tache special selection planted at a cool-climate hillside vineyard owned by Burt Williams, one of the original founders of the famed Williams-Selyem brand. From the first sip, the wine teases the senses with notes of fresh red fruits, rose petals and mineral. The flavor profile echos these sensations with bright flavors of raspberry, cranberry, pomegranate, wild mushrooms and baking spices; zippy acidity; and a long rewarding finish.
Goldeneye 2011 Pinot Noir, Gowan Creek Vineyard, Anderson Valley ($80)
Located near the small town of Philo, the Gowan Vineyard is highlighted by a moderate daytime temperature influenced by the warmer segment of the valley to the south and the cooler climate influence to the north known as the “deep end” of the valley. As a result, this new release features sexy aromas of ripe blue fruits, fresh violets, pennyroyal, leather, and cigar box. On the palate, concentrated flavors of ripe blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry and dark chocolate; vibrant acidity; rich texture; and an ample nuance of toast oak and spice on the finish. Dense. Elegant. Ethereal.
For more reviews of Pinot Noirs and other gems from Anderson Valley, stay tuned for my detailed report upcoming in June.
On a lovely warm afternoon in San Francisco this past Monday, Southern Wine & Spirits and their subsidiary company American Wine & Spirits held their annual “A Taste of the Best” event at the Hyatt Regency Embarcadero Hotel. Below are my top red wine picks from the event. Cost per bottle is based on the retail price at each winery.
Fog Dog 2012 Pinot Noir, Estate Grown, Sonoma Coast ($35)
In the English dictionary, the noun Fog-Dog means “A bright or clear spot that appears in breaking fog.” Working on this premise, this new gem from Joseph Phelps Winery is made with fruit from the prime cool climate areas in the Sonoma Coast appellation where the fog makes a daily break. In my opinion, the 2012 vintage is bigger and more gracious than the 2011 with fond aromas of dark fruit, rose petals and subtle spice. On the palate, the wine opens up with lavish flavors of black raspberry, dark cherry, cola, baking spices and racy acidity. Oh so satisfying!
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing:Grilled salmon served with sunchoke hash, spinach, sundried tomatoes and gourmet mushrooms.
Archery Summit 2012 Pinot Noir, Premier Cuvée, Willamette Valley ($49)
Following the celebrations of the 30-year anniversary of the Willamette Valley appellation and the 20-year anniversary of Archery Summit Winery in 2013, this new release is young, vibrant and very age-worthy. The blend or cuvée of premium Pinot Noir grapes are from the six cherished vineyards that Archery Summit has worked with for years: Arcus Estate, Archery Summit Estate, Red Hills Estate, Looney Vineyard and Renegade Ridge Estate. With attractive earthy-berry aromas and deep flavors of briary blackberry, cherry, licorice, cinnamon, mocha, forest floor and a rich, silky texture, it’s easy to love this wine. Plus, it’s a great value from Willamette Valley at under $50 per bottle.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing:Pork Tenderloin stuffed with compote of cherries and plums.
Madrigal 2010 Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($28)
Located between St. Helena and Calistoga in Napa Valley, talented vineyard manager Chris Madrigal and his family established the Madrigal Family Winery in 1995. Today, with the help of legendary winemaker Ed Sbragia (see below), Chris makes a wide range of tasty limited release wines. Of the current releases, one of my favorites is the Madrigal 2010 Zinfandel, a zesty wine with dynamic notes of wild strawberry jam, black cherry, dark chocolate, clove and fresh ground pepper. Not too jammy; so it’s a great wine to sip by itself or serve with spicy cuisine.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Baby Back Ribs with tangy BBQ sauce.
Qupe 2012 Syrah, Central Coast ($20)
For the money, it’s hard to beat this amazing new release of Syrah crafted by Rhone Ranger’s legend Bob Lindquist. Highlights include enchanting aromas with notes of berries, flowers and citrus and fresh flavors of ripe red berries, boysenberry, mineral, earth, white pepper, cardamom, ocean mist and lovely texture.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Roasted Duck or Cypress Grove’s Purple Haze (Artisan Cheesemaker Mary Keehn’s fabulous offering of fresh Goat Cheese infused with lavender and fennel pollen buds).
Pefolds Bin 389 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, South Australia ($75)
From the land down under, comes the new release of Penfold’s affordable version of baby Grange. Fragrant aromas of ripe red berries, fresh lavender and lambs ear flowers. On the palate, concentrated flavors of blackberry, blueberry, savory spices and long, smooth finish. Ace! (“Excellent!” in Australian slang).
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Lamb Sliders with caramelized onions and blue cheese.
Sbragia 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley ($55)
After more than thirty years of working as head winemaker at Beringer Vineyards in Napa Valley, in 2006 Ed Sbragia returned to his childhood roots in Sonoma County to start his eponymous winery with son Adam in Dry Creek Valley. From the family’s Reserve wine collection, this Cabernet Sauvignon is made with world–class fruit from Monte Rosso Vineyard, a historic site near the top of the new Moon Mountain appellation overlooking Sonoma Valley in southern Sonoma County. Classic hillside aromas of dark berries, fresh tobacco, leather, roasted espresso beans, earth, mineral and wild sage. Elegant flavors of ripe blueberry, briary blackberry, huckleberry, cola, clove, pepper, and savory herbs.
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: Think hearty.Think hillside. Think Wild boar ragu made with sage, fresh picked vegetables, and served with wild mushroom risotto. Yum!
Justin 2011 Isosceles Red Wine, Paso Robles ($70)
Commemorating the 25th Anniversary of one of California’s most iconic wines; the brilliant new release of the Justin 2011 Isosceles is a deep Bordeaux-style blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc. Elegant and sophisticated, the wine opens up with lofty aromas of ripe red berries, licorice, vanilla, and cedar box. Then, with each sip, the flavors become more expansive with deep notes of dark cherry, black raspberry, roasted walnut and baking spices; velvety texture; bright acidity; and a long, rewarding finish. Distinct, refined, and ultimately delicious!
SawyerSomm’s tasty pairing: An ideal wine to pair with grilled Hanger Steak with garlic cream sauce, or an artisan selection of hard cheeses served at the end of the meal.